But they are exceptionally well-endowed in other areas. It seems rude to step on them as we scramble across the jagged granite but Kenny says their sharpened shells are crucial to maintaining a grip on the slippery rocks. We plunge into the sea wearing wetsuits, buoyancy vests and helmets, but the water temperature is a terrible shock.
You've surely got to be drunk or desperate to evade the local constabulary to think leaping off cliffs into the frigid waters of the Irish Sea is a good idea. But Kenny begs to differ. Coasteering, he says, is an uncomplicated way to explore the coast by rock hopping, cliff jumping, swell riding and cave exploring. The kilometre Anglesey Coastal Path circumnavigates the island, but beneath the cliffs is another exhilarating way to discover the island. We scramble, traverse and climb rocks, grasping for impossibly tiny cracks and bumps in the granite.
Tom says going up is easier than going down. But all good cliffs must come to an end, and he suggests a variety of ways to jump into the sea without harm — pin drops or belly flops depending on the depth of the water or graceful swan dives if you're competing for the Olympics.
A gentle swell washes against the base of a cliff at least seven metres below.
Braver souls than us jump off cliff 20 metres above the water, but Kenny limits his leaps to about 11 metres. Unfinished masterpiece: Beaumaris Castle dates back to Seagulls cry encouragement as first Kenny, then I take flight and bomb into the water. Arms flail wildly as we dog-paddle towards shore. He explains how to scramble onto a rock feet first to avoid hands being shredded. Terns drift past silently as we leap across gaps; other fissures in the rock we swim through to reach caves invisible from the cliffs above. The challenge of coasteering is secondary to the fun and exhilaration of being outdoors, according to Kenny.
The next day, Kenny and I paddle kayaks from Borth Wen Beach, heading north to catch the incoming tide. We are ignored by a gaggle of grey seals with plump bellies sunning themselves on a rocky outcrop. In , Kenny tells me, a steam clipper from Melbourne laden with gold sunk off the Anglesey Coast. Some crew and passengers on the ship, called the Royal Charter, lost their lives.
Today, however, the ocean is at its gentlest as our kayaks glide across the water, weaving in and out of rocky outcrops weathered by wind and tide. At one point, we paddle under an archway, its graceful curves white with chalk, before landing at a beach deserted except for Kenny's parents, who swear they aren't spying on him. In the distance, Wales' highest mountain, Snowdonia, emerges briefly from sea mist before receding again. There are times when crossing the Menai Strait, which separates Anglesey from mainland Wales, is a must, says Tudur Owen, the comedian. But for those who don't live there, crossing the other way for the island's unique attractions is surely a must.
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